A view into the kitchen
The cooking takes its cues from the Middle East and the Mediterranean. One plate brings thick labneh and Indonesian honey to scoop up with bread. Another pairs halloumi with grapes, nuts and spices. The small plates suit a table that likes to pass things round.
The sides of the dining room open onto greenery. In the garden photographs, look for the round fire pit with a grate suspended above it. Shelter also hosts private events here. If you have a particular table in mind, ask the reservations team which space is available on your evening.
Three dishes for the dinner table
Warm za’atar pretzel
Tear off a piece of pretzel and dip it into the house labneh. Honey from the island of Sumbawa offsets the tang of the strained yoghurt. It’s a small first order while the rest of the table looks through the menu.
Wood-roasted eggplant
Pomegranate molasses and sumac yoghurt are spooned over the soft flesh. If you’re choosing one vegetable dish, this is where the smoke of the oven meets the tart yoghurt and the sweetness of the molasses.
King prawns from the wood oven
The prawns come with chilli and citrus butter, parsley and garlic bread. Save a piece of bread for the butter left on the plate. For a meat dish, look for the slow-cooked lamb shoulder tucked into pita with tabbouleh and pickles.
The people behind the oven
Executive chef Francisco Benedicto Borges leads the kitchen, with co-owner Stephen Moore as culinary director. The different cuts are worth noticing on the menu. Lamb köfte with mint yoghurt sits among the small plates, while the pulled shoulder in pita makes a more substantial course.
The sides deserve a second look. Ash-grilled cabbage comes with truffle and ham cream, while honey-roasted carrots are finished with toasted hazelnuts. If someone at the table avoids meat or nuts, it’s worth checking all the ingredients, even on a vegetable plate. Shelter also publishes a separate vegan menu.
Lunch or dinner in Pererenan
Lunch has a menu of its own, with filled pide flatbreads, salads and skewers. For a longer dinner, book a time that leaves room for another round of small plates. Parties of six or more should contact the reservations team directly. Dress is smart casual and shoes are required.
